Thailand Travel Guide -> Northern Thailand -> Chiang Rai -> Doi Tung


 
Doi Tung means "flag mountain". It is 1800 meters high, located on the border to Myanmar (Burma), and popular for the Mae Fah Luang Royal Gardens and Wat Doi Tung, a temple on the top of the mountain. The trip to Doi tung is itself very nice, it leads through very beautiful mount scenery, and on the way are elephant camps and hill tribe villages to visit, so it is really a worthwhile day tour.

Elephant Camp
Elephant Camp

Depart at around 9 am latest from Chiang Rai. You can go by car, either self driven or with a chauffeur - the latter is not much for expensive, and you will not have to pay attention to the road. You could also go by motor bike, if you prefer that. On the way you can make detours to see that Phong Pha Bat waterfalls and near Mae San a hot spring, but honestly, you won't miss much if you skip them :-). Your first stop should be the Karen elephant camp Baan Ruammit on the bank of a small river. The village is quite touristy, with lots of souvenir shops and nobody except the shop girls dresses in the traditional costume. Nevertheless, it is interesting. And the real attraction, of course, are the elephants. You can rent them for half and full hours (at least 1 hour is recommended). From the top of a platform you get onto the howdah on the back of the elephant and then the mahout gently directs the animal up the hill and into the jungle. At first being so high above the ground may feel scary, but you will soon get used to it. The beauty of an elephant ride is that it can take you places a car or a bike cannot and where it would be uncomfortable to walk. Plus, elephants make no noise - it is a quiet ride, only interrupted now and then when the elephant finds something interesting to nibble on and won't continue until it has eaten. You can hear the birds and the cicadas sing, inspect epiphytic orchids that grow in the tree here and there, and watch the butterflies.

Don't forget to feed your elephant some bananas or sugar cane after the end of the ride - they expect this treat! If you like to, you can sit in the small open air cafeteria, drink something, and watch the elephants, grownups and babies, splashing around in the river. Elephants love water, indeed, they need to moisten their skin regularly and therefore should be given access to water whenever they want. Where they are not allowed this, the camp is not well run and the animals are mistreated. Avoid such camps!

After the elephant camp continue on the road to Doi Tung. It soon leads into a mountain terrain and the road becomes quite steep. Lovely scenic views can be enjoyed as your car or bike climbs up higher and higher. Doi Tung was a favourite place of the late  king's mother. She had a residence built, on Doi Tung Moop (which is not open for sightseeing tours). What can be visited here are the royal gardens and the mountain top temple, Wat Doi tung. On the way are also interesting hill tribe villages where you can stop.

The most interesting is probably the Akha village, quite near the summit. You can see simple houses, children playing, hens rpicking in the dust for grains, and other scenes of rustic life. Most of the women wear the traditional dark costume with short skirt, knee high  leggings, and the famous elaborate headdresses that are decorated with silver coins. The Akha of this village are used to foreign visitors and welcome them as a source of income - plenty of souvenirs are offered, and every clicking of your camera will result in the extension of at least one hand, followed by a demand for money.

After the visit to the Akha village continue to the Mae Fah Luang gardens. Although the flowers are not spectacular for tourists form the Northern Hemisphere (they are mostly plants from temperate zones, like begonias, snap dragons, delphiniums, hollyhocks, and so on), the gardens are beautifully landscaped and offer good views of the surrounding mountains. Take time for a leisurely stroll along the flower beds and afterwards for some coffee or tea on the open air terrace of the simple cafeteria. Entrance is 70 Baht.

On the way to Doi Tung
On the way to Doi Tung

From the gardens drive up the mountain to Wat Doi Tung (there are signs). The road runs in serpentines and offers exiting views of the valleys and forests beyond. Drive past the temple Wat Noi Doi tung (which is not very interesting) and on the to the summit to Wat Doi tung. Its two small chedis are very old - the were built as early as  911 AD.

Apparently people even then enjoyed the splendid panorama. The gorgeous views of the mountains of upper Burma are indeed astonishing, especially on clear days. From a small sitting area visitors have a particularly breathtaking view, as well as from the walkway lined with posts form which hang large temple bells. The walkway leads to a staircase decorated with two Nagas that takes you to a couple of souvenir stalls if you are interested in buying something.

 

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Last Updated 10.02.2007