Ta Phrom is one of the big favorites of all visitors - the reason is the same as for Preah Khan: it is a charming temple embedded in a forest and partly overgrown by huge jungle trees. It was a deliberate decision of the archeologists to leave it untouched by restoration efforts, with the exception of clearing a path and reinforcing some structures. You can experience the temple just as the early French explorers discovered it. The best time to visit Ta Phrom is very early in the morning, when the dew lifts - a magical sight. If that is not possible, try to come at least before 10.00 am (which is when the big tour groups leave Angkor Thom and head for the outer temples!). It was built as a monastic complex (not as a temple mountain). and consists of a series of long, low buildings standing on one level, all enclosed by a rectangular laterite wall. Ta Phrom was a buddhist site built in the mid 12th to early 13th century by King Jayavarman VII (the syllable "Ta" means "ancestor", it was dedicated to his mother.)

Enter Ta Phrom from the east entrance - this way you see the temple in the proper order and can also avoid the vendors at the west entrance who try to sell refreshments, textiles, and souvenirs. Ta Phrom is large, one of the largest sites of Angkor. Today, not all regions of the temple are accessible, due to collapsed walls, fallen stones, and the ever-present jungle vegetation. 

But this only adds to Ta Phrom's charm. At the east entrance stands a Gopura (entry tower). Follow the path from there to a grand terrace. Next comes another wall and a new Gopura. Just north of it is the so-called "Hall of Dancers" (named after the friezes of carved dancing Apsaras that adorn its walls). It was perhaps used for performances of temple dances. Continue straight ahead. Trees are growing everywhere and giant roots clasp the walls. In the central area of Ta phrom are lots of shrines and galleries, some beautifully decorated with reliefs showing scenes from the life of Buddha. The central sanctuary, however, is completely undecorated - just plain stone walls. This is probably because it was covered on the inside with metal (copper or bronze) sheets; holes on the inner walls suggest this. Make sure to take enough time to enjoy the temples and its surrounding jungle to the fullest, and then proceed along a walkway with a naga balustrade through another Gopura to a jungle path that leads you to the western exit.

On the way back you can visit Prasat Kravan, a  temple from the early 10th century. The name means "Cardamom Temple". It is not associated with a king; it was probably founded by court officials. The temple is small, just five towers built of brick. It lies on the way to Banteay Kdei and Ta Phrom. Prasat Kravan has been restored by the EFEO and is in good condition. It is interesting mainly because of the brick sculptures inside two of the towers - they show the god Shiva and his consort Laksmi. You can climb up the four or five steps t the platform to look at them. On the outside of the central towers are additional sculptures of male guardian figures.